Photographer's Note

Surfing is all about finding good waves. That's why surfers go all around the world to find them. There is this little rule that I try to apply: "The first to the right" (or to the left): I try to drive along the coast and I turn to all the paths/roads that lead toward the coast. If the waves are good i stop, if not, I go back and turn to the next.

I found that bay somewhere in portugal a little while ago. There is a nice long left (a bit mellow) on the left of the bay. It needs big swells to start working, but when it's on, it's long. It can be a bit scary because it's remote and there's lots of current, but it's always empty. And the scenary is... well you see...
When the main breaks are buisy it's worth grabing your car and going for a 40 min rally drive on the devastated paths!

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Photo Information
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Additional Photos by Nicolas Masse (nicoz) Gold Star Critiquer/Silver Workshop Editor/Gold Note Writer [C: 192 W: 14 N: 299] (1979)
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