Life in Eshkashim 1, a photo from Badakhshan, East

Photographer's Note

The reason I went to Khorog was to get an Afghan visa. I had tried in London but my visa application was rejected. They didn’t stamp my passport nor did they make a note of my details. They simply requested more documents that I was not able to get. Compared to that, applying for a visa in the consulate in Khorog is incredibly easy. All you need to submit (except for a couple of photos and an application form, which you can fill in while there) is a letter that explains the purpose of your visit (i.e. ‘tourism”) and contains a statement that you are aware of the risks of such a journey. Then you wait 24 hours, pay 100-200 US dollars and you are ready to go to Afghanistan.

The next morning I took a shared taxi to Ishkashim, 100 km south of Khorog. The road is bad and the journey takes 2-3 hours. We stopped some 5km short of Ishkashim, by the bridge on the river Panj.

According to Google, and various other websites, the border is open from 09:00 to 11:30 and then from 14:00 to 16:00. In fact, on the Tajik side, it’s always closed. There is simply not enough traffic to justify that kind of discomfort. Instead, the soldiers are based in a much bigger and nicer building on the other side of the road, some 200 metres from the bridge.

Fortunately the driver of my shared taxi knew the procedure. It took some whistling and shouting and 10 minutes later (I felt self-conscious about the other shared-taxi passengers waiting to continue their journey to Ishkashim) a young soldier appeared.

“Visa?”, he asked and looked surprised when I showed him the relevant page in my passport.

He didn’t even have keys to the border gate. He had been sent to check if the whistling was not a false alarm and case serious enough for more senior officers to bother. A phone call and another 10 minutes later (while my fellow shared taxi passengers waited patiently) two more soldiers appeared and unlocked the gate. They were very nice and happy to find out I spoke Russian. They asked every possible question about my planned journey: why, where, how, and was I really, really, going on my own – a solo travelling female going to Afghanistan. They’d never been there (“Nas nie pooskayoot” – we are not allowed). They even carried my rucksack from the first gate to the next.

There are 3 gates on that bridge. The Tajik soldiers have the key to the first one, the Afghan (also Tajik) to the last one. To open the middle one, representatives of both border forces need to be present; there are two chains and padlocks on that gate.

I call Afghan soldiers Tajik because… that’s who they are. Some 45% of the citizens of Afghanistan are Tajik. It was very obvious when crossing that border. The soldiers on the two sides of the frontier, in spite of wearing different uniforms, spoke the same (or very similar) language and knew one another’s first names. Afghanistan feels like an artificially formed country (which it really is) made up of cross-border peoples: there are Pashtuns (also present in Pakistan), Tajik, Wakhi (I mentioned that ethnic group in my posts from Khorog), Kyrgyz…

I can’t remember the moment I entered Afghanistan. All I can recall is that, as I was walking through the middle gate, I covered my hair with a scarf. I suddenly felt scared. I didn’t know what to expect or how to behave. On this side of the border no one spoke Russian.

I was also conscious that I had booked a guide I had found on the Internet and I didn’t know anyone who had ever met him. He turned out to be a nice and professional young man. His name was Azim and he had come to the border zone to meet me.

Two hours and some complicated registration process later, I was out in the street outside my guesthouse taking this photo. I was on my own and no longer wearing a scarf. Azim had explained it was not necessary for me to wear any special clothes like long shirts or baggy trousers, in spite of the fact that most women I had seen in Ishkashim wore a burka. I had also been told I could walk on my own wherever I liked and it was fine to photograph people in the streets… Heaven.

…and indeed, these guys didn’t mind at all. When I pointed at my camera they nodded their heads, posed for a few seconds and then carried on working as if nothing had happened. I took a few photos: them looking at me, curious, smiling at the camera, looking away, then back at work. I chose this image, because I like the interaction between the man wearing a hat and the youngest boy, probably his son.

If anyone is interested what was in the plastic bag the man is holding – it’s not gunpowder… ;-) It’s flour. The words written on the bag are: “first class flour” in Russian. Probably import from one of the “stans”, former Soviet republics.

Two more photos in WS.

pajaran, holmertz, worldcitizen, jean113, BennyV, PiotrF, jemaflor, jhm, ChrisJ, GyurMaster, mcmtanyel, CLODO, Royaldevon, alvaraalto, alvaraalto, ktanska, aliabazari, macjake, fotka, PaulVDV, tyro has marked this note useful

Critiques | Translate

holmertz (93592) 2019-12-08 9:00

Hello Kasia,
Finally in Afghanistan! ;-) I have waited patiently for these photos, and the main one is a real beauty. There is such a nice atmosphere and good contact between the man and the boy outside. And those three standing in the doorway are so perfectly framed by the green wood. Technically it's also an outstanding photo. I love the WS too. In this photo and that of the men in the street it looks like absolutely nothing has happened in Afghanistan since the early 1970's. But I know it has.
Also your note (of course) is highly interesting. Getting an Afghan visa has always generally been very easy. I even got one (with some diplomatic assistance) from the Taliban. But I remember entering from Iran in 1972 required quite a lot of paper work at the border lasting for an hour or two, but in a very relaxed and friendly atmosphere which made me so happy. I think that first evening in Afghanistan was the highlight of all my travels.
And would you believe it? This one has to go to my favourites!
Best wishes,
Gert

lousat (130599) 2019-12-08 9:15

Hi Kasia,another great post,not only the pics but a new unique adventure to read. A very difficult day to have Visa and to pass the border as i can read,the rules are very differents...ahaha...but you were very brave to try a visit in this country,one of the most unsafe of the world. The main pic is a masterwork,it seems a painting in a museum with the other guy watching,what a perspective and what a composition,truly amazing! Interesting 2 WS too,especially the Corolla window decorated in that way..ahaha...have a nice evening and thanks,Luciano

worldcitizen (14458) 2019-12-08 9:17

Hello Kasia,
Your note was gripping reading, and it transported me on the journey with you. Your main photo is full of charm. I like the smiles of the young men and the frame of the doorway. Honestly, I am both in awe of your travels and also worried about you at the same time! There is so much good in this world, but unfortunately bad lurks in the shadows, too. When you prepare for trips like these do you ever have doubts? You seem fearless! :-) I look forward to more fascinating scenes from Afghanistan.

jean113 (22561) 2019-12-08 9:24

Hello Kasia, what an interesting story, I enjoyed reading about it. You were brave, I cannot imagine setting off on a trip like this.
There is a lovely interaction between the characters in your picture, their smiles light up the scene.
Thank you for the extra shots, it gives us a real impression of the place.
Kind regards, Jean.

BennyV (32612) 2019-12-08 9:43

This one is a gem, Kasia. The strong diagonal in the composition is pure Rubens, the frame in the frame and then that one character framed outsisde of the inner frame, that could be Magritte! ANd best of all...the smiles and interaction between the two characters in the middle. Father and son, I would think. This one is truly superb!!! So many thanks for showing it here!

Benny

mesutilgim (0) 2019-12-08 9:57

Hello Kasia,
Very good observed and captured. Perfect pov and ligth management as well as sharpness. This group is most probably not much wealthy but their smiling faces is an evidence od the fact that they are happy.
Many good and usefull notes.
TFS and best regards
MESUT ILGIM

PiotrF (52330) 2019-12-08 10:23

Czesc Kasiu
To juz wiadomo kto i dlaczego domyslal sie jaki bedzie cel podrozy ;)
Swietnie sie czyta i oczywiscie oglada ta relacje.
Nie ma zbyt wielu aktualnych relacji z tego kraju wiec warto bedzie Twoje spostrzezenia porownac z archiwum ktore tu prezentowal Gert. W kazdym razie pierwszy post z tego kraju jest "первый класс альбо первый сорт" :)
pozdrawiam
Piotr

SSavvas (334) 2019-12-08 11:08

Hello Kasia,

thanks sharing your adventure/story and for the picture. Both are very interesting.

Wish you all the best

Nicou (193806) 2019-12-08 11:52

Hello

sur le pas de prote quelle image et vue quels personnages tout en sourrire ces homme et ce jeune deux générations et l'homme qui port le sac superbe
Bravo et belle soirée
Nciou

Gerrit (59968) 2019-12-08 16:39

Hello Kasia,
wonderful capture of a remarkable scene. Perfect definition and great composing.
Thanks and regards,
Gerrit

emka (153354) 2019-12-08 23:32

cześć Kasiu, Fascynująca relacja z podróży i do tego rewelacyjne zdjęcie, chyba najlepsze z Twoich, chociaz wszystkie są znakomite. Przy Twojej afgańskiej przygodzie to moja Arabia Saudyjska to pikus i bułka z masłem :). Drogo biorą za tę wizę. Do AS zresztą też: 179 USD, niby na rok i całoroczne ubezpieczenie, ale co mi z tego, drugi raz nie pojadę.
Tadżykistan i Kirgistan w moim zasięgu, może pojadę jesienią? Ale Twoim śladem chyba nie podążę. Moja przyjaciółka była niedawno w Turkmenistanie, też ciężko się tam dostać. Ale jaka potem satysfakcja!

Gratuluje spełnienia marzenia. I czekam z niecierpliwościa na dalsze relacje.
Usciski
MAłgorzata

jemaflor (136272) 2019-12-08 23:33

Hi Kasia,
What an adventure ! Interesting note about your so original trip in this country. Good photo with that scene well captured, good timing, interesting attitude for these people, good effect with the diagonal lines with these smiling people, tfs.

Silvio1953 (206997) 2019-12-09 0:38

Ciao Kasia, lovely composition with nice people, excellent clarity, splendid light, fine details and wonderful colotrs, very well done, my friend, ciao Silvio

jhm (203975) 2019-12-09 4:57

Hello Kasia,

Afghanistan, maybe a nice country but with a very turbulent past.
The people are a very nice addition.
Perfect captured and nice presentation.
Very well done, TFS.

Have a nice week,
John

abmdsudi (89397) 2019-12-09 5:01

Hi Kasia
This sort of street people's shot always gives such a flavour of the locale on which you have capitalised well. Pretty catchy green door frame with each happy candidate fits the space efficiently but the body lingo and animation says a lot here. Without doubt he is a colourful character adding life to the scene with many a potential story within viewer's mind. Absolutely so well defined with strong focus, lovely tones and superb contrast to darker background. A fine daily life capture precisely timed. Congrats
Best regards

ChrisJ (161132) 2019-12-09 8:03

Hello Kasia

Sometimes the visa application process can be incredibly convoluted. I am glad you managed to find a way into Afghanistan. Good sharpness in this superb daily life scene and the man in the fg adds depth and layering and heightens the 3d effect. Tfs!

GyurMaster (21755) 2019-12-10 13:39

Hello Kasia,

The perfection of this shot made three other people to 'fave' it and I didn't have a choice either. :(
Joking apart its a perfectly composed and timed photo: I like how the two boys on the right smile on the guy, who is the central actor carrying the bag. I also like how the fourth guy don't bother the composition at all. And of course I like your notes too. - As usual.

Best Wishes,
Gy
PS: Thank you for visiting and commenting my latest uploads! Shall I pull your leg after I made you hungry? We bought cheese in Zakopane and they have been an excellent dinner with some jam for the past week! We still have some. :)

mcmtanyel (58848) 2019-12-10 22:16

Hello Kasia,
Great people-photography! I like the frame within the frame, great composition. Well done! 👏
Regards,
MT

CLODO (45094) 2019-12-10 22:37

Hi Kasia

I read through your interesting note before looking at the picture. It seems it's a heaven for photographers. The life seems to be frozen for ages. Super framing with the frame of the door, the black indoor as a curtain of a photographic workshop, the good interaction between the adults and the young boys, the diagonal line of the heads balancing the straight light green lines.
On the steps of Roland and Sabrina Michaud, even Ella Maillart or Steve McCurry.
Cheers
CLODO

Royaldevon (76708) 2019-12-11 3:06

Hello Kasia,

I have just read your notes and cannot help but be amazed by your bravery and independence! I have just finished reading a Ken Follet book about Afghanistan and this was like a sequel!
This is such a refreshing photograph. Everyone seems perfectly happy and friendly, the doorway frames the picture beautifully and the figure outside the house makes the perfect guide and helps to give a sense of depth.
Well done to you!

My warm regards,
Bev :-)

alvaraalto (42410) 2019-12-11 4:54

Hello Kasia
An excellent and interesting story with this beautiful photo.
The information describes entering Afghanistan as we would expect. However, the photo shows us a completely different, unexpected side of the country.
Excellent presentation
Have a nice day, groet Rob

ktanska (40499) 2019-12-11 11:26

Hi Kasia,
A super interesting note and truly wonderful picture.
This looks like they have stepped into an old photo frame. A friendly smiling moment in the middle of daily work. The diagonal line their heads form adds dynamics.
Kari

Miguel82 (47110) 2019-12-11 12:01

Kasia, authentic daily life scene taken in Khorog. Adults and teenagers are talking and smiling near a shop. You should post the interesting workshop photos separately to get more visibility. Fine colors, good sharpness, enthralling photo note, regards.

rychem (72179) 2019-12-15 8:00

Skomponowalas zdjecie jak obraz w ramach w muzeum, a obok stoi jeden ogladajacy:)
Super pomysl, a przygody tez warte dluzszej opowiesci
pozdrawiam Ryszard

aliabazari (18418) 2019-12-23 20:56

Hi dear friend Kasia
A beautiful shot of the daily lives of the Afghan people. Well done composition. They laugh at your presence with the camera. I admire your courage to travel.

jmdias (103906) 2019-12-25 4:27

kasia

I was surprised to see malgo invading saudi arabia and I thought she was courageous for that. but, at this moment I am much more surprised to see you in this country, famous by its wars and limitations against women. WOW!!
I am even reading a book about the country in this moment and it looks so grey and sad in those pages. your image isn't grey, these smiles are fabulous and the images of WS are perfect too. excellent note. yes, the country as many in africa was created in artificial basis.

take care and merry christmas

jorge

macjake (96325) 2020-01-05 4:22

Hi Kasia
a long note, but worth the effort to read it. Reading it, it reminds me how SIMPLE life if for me here in Canada. and how complicated it can be in such foreign countries especially Afghanistan. Getting 5 favourites on this photo is NO EASY TASK, congrats on that! I'm impressed :) You went through a lot to have this experience, and i'm glad you shared parts of it with us as well. great shot of this interaction, One of your best TE posts! cheers
Craig

willperrett (14075) 2020-01-11 1:09

Hello Kasia

Nothing to add that hasn't already been said: apart from apologies for my late arrival here. Of course I am again in awe of your heroic travels (as I sit here at home in bed with my tablet, deciding when to take the dog for a walk). Lovely human interest here; and I particularly enjoy the composition/arrangement of the people involved. The image must be special for me to be inspired to comment!!

Kind regards

Will

fotka (7621) 2020-03-03 4:56

Witaj Kasiu,
Idealnie zrobione zdjecie z zycia codziennego. Rama okienna jest jak rama obrazu z trzema postaciami a mlodzieniec przed nia jakby ogladal ten obraz.
Twoja notatka daje sporo ciekawych informacji na temat podrozy to Afganistanu.
Fantastyczne zdjecie przy wspanialej jakosci.
Pozdrowienia,
Zbigniew

PaulVDV (55531) 2020-04-03 12:06

Hello Kasia,
I knew all along that you were an adventurous girl but now I know you really dare :)
Still a remarkable testimony about this part of the country.
If only it ever gets that simple to visit the entire country.
Good to see so many smiling faces.
As a woman, could you ever have contact with Afghan women? Maybe I'll read that in a next post.
Excellent sharpness and composition.
Best regards, Paul

tyro (30513) 2020-04-27 14:02

Hello Kasia,

I could have sworn that I had critiqued this trio of photographs in the past. I have certainly seen them before but obviously I went no further than just looking and reading at the time.

What a wonderfully detailed note you have written but every sentence is a joy to read. And I do believe that the happy friendly smiles of the people in your main photograph convey the relief and contented feeling which you felt when you eventually passed through those border gates into Afghanistan and met up with Azim, your guide.

Your two workshop pictures are lovely snapshots of your first encounter with life in Eshkashim but your main photograph is a true gem!

Wonderful!

Kind Regards,

John.