h2nl (314) 2009-02-23 12:32:41

I adjusted the white point of the picture to the brightest spot in the clouds. This gives a bit of a warm, sunny glow to the picture, and what's more it enhances the colors of the rock.
I hope you like it.
Regards, Han

Dpbours (220) 2008-02-17 01:10:04

I started with unsharp mask 150%, 0.3 pix radius, 0 treshold. Then edit-fade to lighter w 100% opacity.
Then unsharp mask again 150%, 0.3 pix radius, 0 treshold. But then edit-fade to darker w 100% opacity.

After that I fiddled with highlight/contrast to create a bit more feel of dynamic range. Some darker spots becoming ligher. I worked with the curves option to balance black/white points. Then hue/saturation/lightness on individual colour channels.
Hope you like the result!

gyamtso (153) 2007-12-07 03:12:30

highlight/shadow increase; adding some contrast and brightness

Hellas (5127) 2007-09-06 03:31:43

I tried to reduce the reflections of the snowy peaks. I hope you like it!

waseemkhan (1070) 2007-06-18 12:59:39

Aouto lavel....
Brghit control....
sharp.............

Dpbours (220) 2007-06-11 03:10:24

To start with your question on the vignetting. It depends on the light you have and the aperture used. Sometimes you have it, sometimes you don't. But if you have it, it will be between 18-22mm.

If you shoot raw, you can get rid of the vignetting in the raw program. You use kind of a circle overlay that is light in the corners.

Since I didn't have the raw, I worked with what we have. I used the transformation warp to pull the corners out of the visible part of your composition.
Next to that I got rid of the soft feel in the distances with an unsharp mask of 16% - pixel radius of 50.

After that a noise reduction in the sky and a sharpening in the foreground with Noise Ninja plugin. (Noise reduction 12/20, contrast 15/20).

Last but not least a soft ND grad filter plugin. Blue ND grad top to 75% down. Light red ND Grad from bottom to 75% up - very soft.
And finally I placed back the frame.

But bottom line, vignetting depends on the aperture and the focal depth. Up to 35mm stay at F/8. Above, go to F/11 or higher. Have a look at:

http://www.photozone.de/8Reviews/lenses/nikkor_18200_3556vr/index.htm

A good explanation on our lense, especially on the distortions and which are the sweet spots of the lense.

Greetings! Dennis

Jaan (250) 2007-05-31 19:11:51

Colour correction
COntrast
Brightness
Shadow :)

luisafonso (858) 2007-05-22 05:55:55

The light in the photo is already very good. I just increased sharpness a bit and reduced the saturation in the red and yellow channels. I opened the midtones a bit to slightly lighten the image. It's a great portrait. Hope you like it.

chicken (1781) 2007-02-25 08:12:37

I used Photoshop for postprocessing. First I've added a curve layer and moved the white point until I've got white clouds, additionally I slightly tweaked the curve to improve contrasts in the sky. I then added a mask to this layer to restrict the changes to the sky.
Secondly I added a levels layer to increase brightness globally by moving the middle slider, I moved it until the yellow field looked right.
A third layer, this time another curve, was added to add contrast (s-curve) that got lost by the brightening.
Finally I did some selective saturation of the yellows, reds and blues.
I hope you like it and it still reflects what you've seen and felt actually being there.

zitroxim (73) 2007-02-11 03:17:13

rotate 1 cw
crop: forcing the "lines" to the pictures corners.

regards

fernando