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Photographer's Note

While the image of a surfer standing on a board is immediately recognizable; itís actually much more difficult to ride a wave using only your hand to control your directon and rate of descent on the wave. This fellow has just dropped off the lip of the wave and is reaching out to get his hand into the water so he can use it to convert his downward motion into a traverse across the face of the wave. There are a few hand held foils that can be used to increse the amount of control, or lift, but most bodysurfers prefer to go it without.

Though the Newport Wedge is only about 100 meters wide, it's one of the most challenging waves in the world. As waves approach shore, they bounce off the jetty's boulders causing a refraction wave which merges at an acute angle with the swell. This increases the size of the wave by 50%. The First photo I posted of the Wedge, lacked the stability and freedom of a tripod. Vowing to improve, I started following the surf report. When a storm generated in the Antartic near New Zealand produced a big swell, I jumped into action. I wasn't alone, there were also 3 TV news cameras and 50 other photographers out hoping to catch the perfect shot on this 20 foot wave. The photographers actually out-numbered those brave enough to challenge this wave; but in this small area, 30 challengers looked a bit like rush hour.

PP: Nikon Capture, D-lighting, Color Mode IIIa, convert to JPEG. PS: Smart Fix 4%, Frame and save for web.

RPoole5552, weswang, nebeesley has marked this note useful

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Additional Photos by Larry Carolan (lcarolan) Gold Star Critiquer/Silver Workshop Editor/Gold Note Writer [C: 232 W: 14 N: 388] (948)
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