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If Fulvio Ferraris (Fulvio52) found himself traveling west from Albany NY in the 1950s he would probably have stayed over night at an establishment like this one. Across the road are the ruins of a friendly tavern.
For 150 years, from the early 1800's to the 1950's, Route 20 was the quickest way west, and the towns that sprang up alongside it -- Sharon Springs, Cherry Valley, Richfield Springs, Madison -- starting some 20 miles west of Albany, grew fat on its bounty. Then along came the New York State Thruway, a few miles to the north, and the towns along Route 20, deprived of a steady stream of travelers, sank into decline. The last five years have seen something of a renaissance, thanks to urban runaways from both coasts, who have brought much-needed cash.
From the Schoharie Turnpike, Route 20 climbs and twists, providing a view to the left and straight ahead of the lush hills and farms of the Mohawk Valley. This is dairy country, most of it populated by the beloved black-and-white Holstein. And in the village of Esperance, 10 miles farther west, you'll find a monument to milk -- or, rather, to what milk becomes -- at Eastman's Cheese House. Eastman's 13 varieties of cheese spreads include horseradish and bacon, onion and bacon, jalapeno and pistachio (yes, pistachio), and they go wonderfully on the homemade sourdough cheese bread also sold here.
Cheese spreads in hand, you're ready for Esperance's other attraction, the George Landis Arboretum. Founded by a local poet named Fred Lape in 1951, on the site of his family's Oak Nose Farm just outside the village, the arboretum is home to more than 2,000 species of trees, plants and flowers, neatly arranged in plantations. Easy paths lead through about 30 of the arboretum's 100 acres, including the mile-and-a-half woodland trail, which winds past the arboretum's main attraction, a 500-year-old oak tree.
Esperance is typical of the small towns along Route 20, conveying a sense of both past and present, as historical buildings stand side by side with modern shops and houses. That's not true of Sharon Springs, about 15 miles farther west, a quiet town of lilac bushes, gazebos and stately green-and-white houses. At the turn of the century Sharon Springs was a world-famous resort, with upward of 100,000 visitors each summer. The Pavilion, the grandest of its 15 hotels, was summer home to the Vanderbilts, the Goulds and the J. P. Morgans, who came for the healing powers of the sulfur springs and for the social season. In the late 1940's the town became popular with New York City's Hasidic and Jewish populations.
Today Sharon Springs, population 500, is something of a ghost town. The tree-lined streets seem deserted even in high summer, and many of the fine Victorian houses are sadly dilapidated. The Pavilion is gone, the public bathhouse is in ruins, and only one hotel, the Adler, still offers baths.
(The New York Times)

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Additional Photos by Tom O'Donnell (gunbud) Gold Star Critiquer/Gold Note Writer [C: 5685 W: 5 N: 6702] (27695)
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