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We hadn't planned to go to Valdez. After the Exxon Valdez oil spill, I somehow imagined that the environment was totally destroyed but at a stop in Tok both locals and tourist alike said it was one of the prettiest places in Alaska. This is the view taken from our overnight parking place in Valdez. About 10 pm, it begins to look like late afternoon. The coffee shop across the street had an open mike for Saturday night. Most folks were pretty quiet, but the last singer, around midnight, sounded like a wounded cat.

Downtown Valdez seems like a huge RV Park. We've been trying to figure out why we liked it. It is beautiful: wild rivers, close-up glaciers, impressive peaks, and pristine ocean sounds calving icebergs. There's a festive air about the place, like a real-life Disneyland for adults with ocean kayaking, sport fishing with big halibut arriving at the dock, glaciers to climb, and rivers to run. Valdez is one of the extreme skiing capitols of the world but the heli-skiing office was closed now. Most of Alaska seems to close up early but here you can get espresso 24 hours a day. Maybe because the weather was perfect with a sense of spring in the air. Folks are enthusiastically planting gardens and eagerly anticipating salmon runs. A city employee picking up trash on Sunday morning said, we'd hit the best weather day of the year. "It's a good thing it isn't always like that," he said, "otherwise everybody would want to live here."

Valdez was relocated after the 1964 earthquake destroyed the old town. The downtown area seems reserved for tourists, with locals living in the woods away from town. Perhaps the separation and the lack of an, ‘old vs. new’ culture explains the tolerant friendliness that a fellow from Ketchikan expressed, "People are real friendly here. They're laid back and easy-going or maybe it's that it's such a small town that they can't get away with anything. Mess up and everybody knows it." He spent summers in Valdez, repairing windshields and was anxious to find a place so he could more to Valdez full-time. He thought that motor home tourists were easier to get along with than cruise ship tourists.

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Additional Photos by Pat Lim (plimrn) Gold Star Critiquer/Gold Star Workshop Editor/Gold Note Writer [C: 4043 W: 231 N: 6276] (19600)
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