Photos

Photographer’s Note

KUSADASI — BIRDS' ISLAND

Kusadasi, “Birds’ Island,” is a resort city on the Aegean Coast of Turkey, and a port that serves the magical ruins of Ephesus. Two thousand years ago Ephesus, used to be a port city itself, but silting from the Meander River led to the city’s isolation from the sea. It is now several kilometers from the sea. Natural catastrophes — the silting of its harbor, earthquakes, and epidemics — all took their toll, and the city was eventually abandoned. Thousands of tourists flock each year to see Ephesus, some from land, and far more from the sea.

Ephesus, Didyma, Miletus, Prienne, Halicarnesus (modern Bodrum), and the Greek Islands of Samos and Cos — all Greco-Roman towns nearby — left extraordinary legacies for Western Culture. The Ephesus that one sees now is one of the most beautiful of all the ruins in the world. It was founded by Alexander the Great, an earlier Ephesus, a few kilometers away, had been badly damaged by an arsonist on the day of Alexander’s birth. The earlier Ephesus had been the city of the great philosopher Heraclitus (for whom Raphael, in his Vatican mural, ‘School of Athens,’ used the iconic artist, Michelangelo). It was also most likely the city of the blind poet, Homer, author of the 'Iliad' and the 'Odyssey' (ca. 750 BC). Having said that, I must add a small disclaimer: there is some uncertainty about whether Homer existed, whether indeed the epic poems credited to him were the works of one man. In the 19th century an English poet famously wrote, “Seven cities claimed him dear/ When in life they watched him beg!”

The latter (i.e. Alexander's) Ephesus had its own distinguished history. In the 1st century AD, St. John is believed to have brought Virgin Mary to Ephesus, where she lived out her days. It is also known that St. Paul, the greatest spreader of Christianity, visited the city and addressed the throngs gathered in the great amphitheater. It was not a very hospitable reception he found that day, with a master silversmith leading the protest against Paul’s preaching. Indeed, he was barely able to escape with his life, setting sail for his next stop Corinth, in the Peloponnese.

Of all of the Aegean Greco-Roman cities, my favorite happens to be Miletus, less than two hours south of Ephesus by car. This is the city of Thales, the first great natural philosopher. Beginning in the late 7th century BC, Thales started teaching that natural phenomena could be explained by understanding natural laws, and not by attributing such processes to the whims and vagaries of the Gods. For this, Thales can be regarded as the man who invented science. We now know such natural laws as the ‘Laws of Physics.’ Thales founded an academy where aspiring philosophers would receive training. Anaximander, a student and later colleagues of Thales in the academy, hypothesized that our distant ancestors came from the sea, to be proposed again 2500 years later by Darwin. The famous mathematician Pythagoras, who hailed from the nearby Island of Samos, was trained in the Academy at Miletus.

Another favorite son of Samos who received his training in Miletus was, Aristarchus, 2300 years ago demonstrated that the earth was a sphere, and that it was a planet. Aristarchus proposed that the earth revolved around the sun, just like "the other planets." This theory is known as the “heliocentric picture” in distinction to the “geocentric,” in which all the heavenly bodies orbit the earth. Aristarchus is sometimes called the “Copernicus of Antiquity,” although perhaps Copernicus should be called the “Aristarchus of the Renaissance.”

The Greek Island of Cos was the home of Hippocrates (of the “Hippocratic Oath” fame). In 1992 my son, Michael, who was then in medical school at Johns Hopkins, accompanied me on a cruise. When we visited Kos, Michael was asked to read the Hippocratic Oath aloud for all of us, and at the very site that legend has Hippocrates handing down his ‘Oath.’ This has to be an overwhelming source of pride for any father.

On August 1, the cruise ship, Crystal Symphony, on which I had been serving as a special topics lecturer paid a visit to Kusadasi. At the end of the day the Symphony was just getting ready to sail west toward the Ionian Sea and Dalmatian Coast of Croatia, when the cruise ship docked right next to Symphony, pulled out of its berth. I never learned the name of the ship, nor its land of origin… nor its destination. But I did snap its photograph while it was still eclipsing the setting sun. Almost an hour later when we were sailing, I could still see the mysterious ship’s lights, we were heading in the same direction. I guess, we were literally ‘ships passing in the night.’

The photo was shot with an 18-70 mm zoom lens mounted on a Nikon D-70, no filter, no tripod. I steadied the camera on one of the large dock cleats used for tying down a ship when it is moored.

Photo Information
Viewed: 1992
Points: 98
Discussions
Additional Photos by Bulent Atalay (batalay) Gold Star Critiquer/Gold Star Workshop Editor/Gold Note Writer [C: 4628 W: 300 N: 6946] (21416)
View More Pictures
explore TREKEARTH