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One of the most beautiful villages in Mallorca, Deià is located on the dramatic northwestern coast of the island, relatively far from the tourist meccas as Palma and Alcudia. It's a dramatic ten-kilometre journey to Deià southwest from Sóller along the Ma-10. The mighty Puig des Teix meets the coast here and although its lower slopes are now gentrified by the villas of the well-to-do, the mountain retains a formidable, almost mysterious presence. Doubling as the coastal highway, Deià's main street skirts the base of the Teix, showing off most of the village's hotels and restaurants. At times, this thoroughfare is too congested to be much fun, but the tiny heart of the village, tumbling over a high and narrow ridge on the seaward side of the road, still preserves a surprising tranquillity. Here, labyrinthine alleys of old peasant houses curl up to a pretty country church, in the precincts of which stands the grave of Robert Graves, the village's most famous resident – marked simply "Robert Graves: Poeta, E.P.D." (En Paz Descanse: "Rest In Peace"). From the graveyard, the views out over the coast are truly memorable.