Photos

These are the cremation ghats at Pashupatinath in Kathmandu. The locals here seem quite happy with tourists coming to watch the cremations and to take pictures, unlike in Benares where one can get into trouble.

I had never seen a dead body until my first trip to India. When I arrived in Benares we were arguing with a rickshaw driver (who was trying to charge us far too much money after taking us somewhere we didn't want to go) when I quite literally tripped over one, it was lying on the ground awaiting its turn on the pyre. I have since watched many cremations, and I am always struck by how peaceful and normal it feels to me. Many people think its disgusting, especially when a charred limb starts moving out of the flame and has to be pushed back in, or when the guy in charge of the pyre hits the burning corpse violently with his stick (to help break up the body and aid complete burning I think). My view is that death is normal, and the standard western view of itis unhealthy. By putting it out of sight we give death an extra sense of mystery and horror which it does not deserve. Instead of putting it in the cupboard and shutting the door we should invite it outside, where we can see there is nothing to be afraid of.

Info on Pashupatinath...
Pashupati is one of the numerous names for Lord Shiva and Pashupatinath is the main Hindu pilgrimmage site in Nepal. Unfortunately non-Hindus are not allowed into the Golden Temple which is the main shrine but there are plenty of other things to see.
Cremations take place on the bank of the river Bagmati, in front of the Golden Temple. Pashpatinath is a UN World Heritage Site.